Steam from an espresso wand, or the click of backgammon pieces and a spoon against a tea glass — SAMSAT ÇİĞ KÖFTE VE KAFETERYA NARGİLE in Akdağmadeni carries its own version of that sound, whichever kind of place it turns out to be. There's usually a quieter stretch somewhere in the day, a lull between rushes; you just have to catch it once to know when.